FEAR

FEAR

Fear...yes, some of us surfers, big wave chargers, daredevils, and Titans, just don't like to talk about it. But it's like the elephant in the room. You know it's there with you, but you don't want no mention of it. However, there are other's who welcome the elephant. And when he's asleep they make certain to wake him. There are many reasons why some surfers react differently towards fears than others, sometime there's just no point in panicking when there's no where to go when you've got a 20ft set in front of you. I remember my first trip to Hawaii sleeping to the peaceful rumble of waves crashing. The pounding of a big swell, pounding its way all through the night as it reaches its final destination. Peaceful and not. I lay in bed looking up at the ceiling while listening to the rumble, knowing full well that by dawn I would be paddling through some heavy sets. The racing heart beat begins. As I stretch, as I wax, as I watch the waves my heart beats faster. Suddenly that warm cool feeling as I hit water, I almost can't feel my legs. But I keep my legs pumping and my arms paddling no matter what. I will get my wave today.

Surfers deal with fear for many reasons throughout their surfing life. Some seek it out other's reach their peek, climb their mountains, then they are complacent with fun surf conditions every now then, and watching their children grow up to be great surfers as they once were. The "Philanthropist Surfer" has nothing to prove. Legendary Big Wave Surfer Ross Clarke-Jones, is a surfer who likes to seek out this fear, so much that he makes a good experience out of a bad experience. Ross...."if you aren't strong enough to beat the wave, go with the flow, find your happy place ... Ross Clarke-Jones says that he imagines himself in a nightclub surrounded by beautiful women, and sometimes doesn't even want to surface.

However, you respond to "Fear" don't let "Fear" get in the way of your surf session, or stand in the way of the ride of your life. This lesson can be applied to almost every aspect of your life. Don't let "Fear" get in your way of you making decisions. Your "Will" is more powerful and stronger than "Fear".